Since Antoine and Victor met in early 2003, the designer duo behind Luxoir have gone from strength to strength. After a debut in Valencia, they moved on to take part in the Gaudí catwalk for new design talent, meeting with public and critical acclaim at Barcelona Fashion Week that raised their status on the competitive Spanish fashion scene.
Now, they have made it to Cibeles, presenting one of the most innovative shows on the programme. Entitled Junk – a term applied to everything from fast food to rubbish and now recycled into art – their collection successfully straddles a line somewhere between streetwear and tailoring.
Hoods alternate with high ruff-shaped necks without zips. Details become prominent and visible seams on yokes feature alongside batwing sleeves and straight or drainpipe jeans. The result is a collection chock full of pleats, darts and ruffles.
The collection sweeps away the barriers that separate winter from spring, with colours – stone grey, indigo, pale pink and bottle green – and fabrics – plasticised, velvet and needle cord – designed for a gentler Mediterranean-style winter.
The biggest applause was raised by a dress where cape and medieval breeches merged into one, made from a striking Prince of Wales check print.