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• 03/15/2010

  Modacalzado, shoe clues for the winter to come

  • 

    Chie Mihara

• FACT FILE

  Spanish exhibitors: 314

  Net surface area: 16.768 sq mt

  Location: Feria de Madrid

   

  CONTAC

  Feria de Madrid (IFEMA)

  28042 Madrid
  Tel.: +34 91 772 30 00
  modacalzado@ifema.es

  http://www.ifema.es

   

  NEXT SHOW DATES

  24-26 September

If there’s something Spanish brands agree on about shoes for next winter, it’s that feet need to be well wrapped up. That aside, anything goes. Boots are the season’s favourite, with dizzy platforms for women, and rustic mountain styles for men.

The height of luxury
Magrit goes for opulence and sophistication. From jewelled shoes to sumptuous leather with a metallic finish, the brand has created elaborate designs like peep-toe ankle boots with die-cut leather. Ballet pumps are back with a vengeance, now adorned with jeweled brooches. Particularly striking is the use of double platforms, lace and velvet.

High heels are a constant feature in Pura López’s winter collection which includes giddy platforms, some of which are doubled. Soft nappa alternates with embossed leather to add character to a collection which features grey and navy blue. Musketeer boots are wrinkled for greater practicality. For the evening, there are satin designs with subtle studs.

Rebeca Sanver has made the double stiletto her centrepiece, in a salute to the 1950s. This style icon is followed by ultra-high heels with internal or visible platforms. The brand presents bold colour, which ranges from wine red to blue, black and earthy shades. Corsetry details and Swarovski crystals add elegance to ballet flats and shoes.

Dorotea presents a collection inspired by the forests of Central Europe. Autumnal colours such as moss green and mud are spiced up with aqua, raspberry and mauve. Texturised and waxed leather is combined with glossy and metallic black versions. Mascaró, for its part, has gone for heels with beaded platforms. Suede is the star fabric in a collection where the palette ranges from grey to green and blue.

The winter selection from Castañer has taken on a richer dimension. The brand adapts its classic espadrilles to the cold season with velvet and Swarovski crystal. High boots are now part of the brand’s universe with high-heeled knee-length versions. Wooden clogs come in green, brown and red suede, while crêpe soles can be found on more casual looks. In the more sophisticated line, the brand has jewelled shoes with ultra-high platforms and peep-toes. New this year, are country-style boots in a traditional vein.

Urban romanticism
True to her romantic spirit, Chie Mihara has designed a fully-fledged garden for next autumn. Leather is folded and gathered into flowers which decorate medium-high heels. Finishes look intricate with a penchant for metallic effects. Foal leather is used in bolder designs in a collection dominated by suede in colours that range from fuchsia to green and mustard.

Striking too are gaitered shoes that combine black and white suede and leather. Lace-up knee-high boots are set to be another new wardrobe mainstay for winter. The brand is also launching its second bridal collection, inspired by the 1920’s .

Ras stays fresh and fun with a series of fantasy ballet flats adorned with coloured and rhinestone appliqué. For the evening, it offers imposing jewelled platforms, as does Alima , brightly coloured wellingtons.

At Pretty Ballerinas, patchwork is the novelty. Shapes are unchanged, but colours and patterns are blended. The 1980’s is set to be another source of inspiration for autumn, with dogtooth ballet flats sporting snakeskin and crocodile toes and the bold luxury of Swarovski crystal. New colours are explored, in particular the deepest shades, like grey and dark green. But the real revolution is a second collection for girls, with the focus on glossy textures and bubblegum pink.

Get casual
Zampiere men’s shoes have gone casual for the very first time. The collection is cosy and rustic, in an effect achieved with a combination of different textures. Lightweight, flexible moccasins feature in orange and bright blue. There are also slipper shoes which alternate dogtooth with velvet. Boots are fur-lined and there are plenty of lace-up models and classic updates of mountain boots in greased leather.

Barrats adopts a similar line with classic models in an informal style, like fur-lined boots and waxed finishes. Chelsea boots use soft, flexible leather, while patent leather completes the range with a more elegant style for evening with buckles and Oxford style. Here the big novelty is a gentleman’s shoe weighing in at just 250 grammes.

Callaghan goes back to its roots with the designs that made it famous in the 1980’s. A worn-look nautical style rubs shoulders with characterful casual shoes in natural colours such as brown, grey, blue and black. The brand maintains its ongoing commitment to total comfort.

Pikolinos has also turned back the clock in a collection with trendy finishes and metal appliqué. Its Wellness line includes a swivel shoe that aids walking and comes in attractive designs.

Boots and ankle boots
Si by Sinela showed its sportiest side with low-shaped, high-legged boots. Built to be practical, soles are made from rubber and rabbit appliqué adds appropriate winter decoration. Gathered leather adds detail at the ankle.

The Biviel winter collection is young and urban, with updated biker looks sporting embroidery and metallic appliqué. The platform appears in waxed boots which alternate with ballet flats and clogs. New too is pleated waxed leather and a series of country-style boots set to be one of next season’s must-haves.

The urban spirit also dominates Wonders boots which explore country style with waxed leather. More classic alternatives come in a glossier format. New too is the Wonderfly, a lightweight shoe which cushions the foot as it walks.

Menorca’s Looky goes for medium heels and classic silhouettes in a very wintry range (olive green, ocean blue and aubergine). Cowboy boots and shoes are back again with fringes and metal detail. For an element of eccentricity, there is exotic leather in glossy and metallic finishes.

Pons Quintana reviews the classics but in vertigo-inducing versions. Oxford shoes for women are raised on to platforms, while ballet flats are updated in patent leather with studs. Printed foal leather with leopard print is used in a series not suitable for the faint of heart. Pertini also offered a very British approach to winter, where women adopt classic men’s shoes raised on to black and white platforms, Balmoral-style, and heeled moccasins. Exotic leather features in high-legged boots. The colour palette is cold, with predominance of green, grey, blue and aubergine.

Wild West style
True to its far-west spirit, Sendra has a new boot collection with legendary cowboy styles adorned with hand-set studs and highly-processed metallic leather.

Sancho offers exotic skins like snake and lizard in cowboy boots with gold-thread detail, studs and leather appliqué, a device it also uses in its biker and mountain boots.

Child’s play
Exquisite materials have also been used in footwear for youngsters, with patent leather bar shoes, suede ballet flats and glossy leather ankle boots. Trendy designs also make room for favourite prints featuring hearts and flowers.

Renowned kids’ footwear brand Andanines has a futuristic collection in grey with silver leather decoration. The striking “dream-catcher” box has also been a big hit. Tough Gorila shoes are now even more innovative and sport a new “total adaptation” sole system, for comfort and flexibility.

Victoria has drawn on its success in the adult market to cater for little ones, with new plimsolls in velvet and patent leather with a worn look. The brand is also licence-holder for “Las Tres Mellizas” – a well-known cartoon series featuring three triplets – for which it designs a special collection.

Gioseppo has a wide range aimed at all segments, including men’s, women’s and children’s shoes and slippers. New this edition was Colour Therapy, a range of wellingtons with matching umbrellas in a broad selection of colours ranging from fuchsia to pistachio and blue, as well as designs in soft prints, check and diamonds.

From shopping bag to clutch
Punto Tres has a series of bags in exquisite leather and full of cosmopolitan spirit. Particularly prominent are shoulder bags to be worn across the body and belts with impressive silver buckles. The brand also presented its first collection of leather bracelets with metal detail.

Dimoni has elegant bags which drape and gather leather into imposing designs that get their subtlety from the quality of the materials. Foal leather is printed with zebra stripes and leopard spots, while fur adds detail to its more wintry designs.

Rhinestone dominates the Drap collection with jewel clutch bags in gold, silver or diamond colours for that extra special occasion. These are coordinated with sophisticated sandals. Plants inspire brooches, bracelets and stiff wallets made with Swarovski crystal.