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• 02/11/2010

  Madrid Fashion Week

  • 

    Viriato stand

• FACT TILE

  Exhibitors: 600

  Net surface area: 13.276 metros cuadrados

  Location: Feria de Madrid

   

  CONTACT

  Feria de Madrid (IFEMA)

  28042 Madrid
  Tel.: +34 91 772 30 00
  simm@ifema.es

  http://www.ifema.es

   

  NEXT SHOW DATES

  2-4 september 2010

Contrasts were the common denominator at this year’s SIMM, with casual silhouettes made from luxury fabrics, and oversized garments coordinated with boleros, tiny waistcoats and mini-dresses. Style-wise, 1980s rock and ultra-feminine lines mixed in the most winning combinations.

Stitch by stitch
Diktons focused on volume in a collection of boleros, skirts, oversized sweaters and mini-dresses in top quality merino wool. Silhouettes from the 1980s made a come-back in garments inspired by the film noir of the 1940s. The knit specialist showed a new two-tone effect velvet and paper combination. The colour palette broadened to include fuchsia, red wine and Capri blue, which contrast with neutral shades like anthracite grey and black. In a different sense, a touch of “green” came from leggings in eco-leather and rayon.

Montoto demonstrated its knitwear skills in a collection of updated basics. Metal appliqué brightened up feminine jumpers in different thicknesses. Jacquard made a comeback, especially in black and white. Animal prints were also strong.

TMX mixed 1940s silhouettes with 1980s rocker details for winter. Military clothing was the inspiration for coats which featured metal appliqué, which also appreared on leather waistcoats. The evening line resorted to crystal and sequins to add sparkle to close-fitting, mainly black pieces. Quilted jackets were another mainstay of this collection.

Chic knit was the maxim of the Viriato autumn collection. Casual creations and knitted trousers used tracksuit silhouettes paired with oversized jackets and bulky jumpers. Wool imitated fur in mini-jackets worn over other garments, and draping was the key to sweaters. Cool shades (aubergine, mustard, sea blue and beige) made up the colour palette.

Escolá went for a total look in knit. Long knitted coats were original, easy-going and timeless. Geometric jacquard and leather details appeared in jackets. Angora and viscose knits came in grey and black with splashes of beige, camel, brown and purple.

Guitare also showed jacquard knits - a new direction for this brand – which appeared in heavy garments. Also new were elaborate S-shaped knits. The brand used deluxe materials such as angora, cashmere and silk in a winter wardrobe built around mini-dresses and tunics worn with short jackets. The palette was dominated by grey combined with fuchsia, blue and lilac.

Naulover designed a hunter line, with long jackets, coats, twin sets, jumpers, dresses, loose shirts and T-shirts in wool, silk and angora either pure or mixed. Floral prints, jacquard, check and embroidery are among the favourite motifs.

Romantic folk and ethnic chic
Almatrichi brought with it its spring/summer 2010 ready-to-wear fashions, a bright and colourful offering where prints are a constant feature. Polka dots and beading were rife in cocktail dresses, while tunics have frills on sleeves and hems, and also appear in patchwork. New this season are knitted garments with 1960s prints, which add a note of colour to T-shirts, dresses and scarves.

Flamenco brought back the ye-ye style for autumn/winter 2010/11 that provided an explosion of colour. Leather appeared on the hoods and cuffs of quilted jackets and on long ecru waistcoats. Ethnic-style smocks had metal appliqué and belts had beaded detailing. Trench coats and cardigans rounded off an original and exotic collection.

Inspired by a perfume bazaar, the Mamatayoe collection was an exercise in sensual femininity. Comfortable garments in simple shapes with unusual prints were combined with floral patterns. The collection was made up of eight key colours with raspberry and earth tones dominant.

Luxury Prêt-à-Porter
Alba Conde created a collection featuring wardrobe mainstays with a cosmopolitan feel. The leitmotiv was elegant fabrics. Garments were impeccably cut with all the character and durability of objet d’arts. Jackets with bulky shoulders alternated with loose three-quarter-length blouses. Knit was the cornerstone of a silhouette-enhancing collection. For special occasions, there was wool, flannel and velvet worn with satin, diaphanous silk and silk knit in emphatic feminine shapes.

Piped music was the theme for the autumnal offering by Jota+Ge. Prints featured throughout and were mixed with fabrics for a surprising look. The two designers looked to crocodile skin to create trousers with an 1980s feel, while romantic quilted coats were another must for the autumn to come.

Ibizan designer Charo Ruiz ventured into the world of bridalwear, giving it a relaxed and romantic feel. Dresses had lace edges. Blonde lace, black and white featured prominently, while blue and coral made fleeting appearances.

Special dates
Aurora Boreal is the name of the new collection by Matilde Cano, , which featured long dresses with voluminous flowing silhouettes and asymmetric cut cocktail dresses with tight bodices, either draped at the waist or with an empire line. Silk organza, mikado, taffeta and natural silk came in shades ranging from a neutrals to the bright and colourful.

Mass, Matilde Cano’s second line, went for feminine chic cuts in luxury fabrics for evening. Silhouettes were tailored and skirts gained volume in a collection of plain colours which balanced the figure. Tops were worn with silk and other sumptuous fabrics. The brand also included a small line of long gowns in pearly shades, moss green and midnight blue which drew attention to the waist and neckline.

Veneno en la Piel exuded glamour from the past in long, empire line dresses, draped at the bust, which featured bias cuts and prints inspired by minerals. Ballooning shaped dominated its cocktail dresses, all in plain colours. Black and white led the collection which also made room for grey, blue, green, red and gold.

Chic accessories
Mo by María Roca added a splash of winter colour with her original bags. In an allusion to the world of flowers, her fabrics formed spirals that finished up in long circular handles. Two-toned chocolate box bags were an eveningwear mainstay, in combinations of cream, grey, blue and pink. Animal hides – such as ostrich and snakeskin - were the inspiration for bags, briefcases and wallets. Brooches, bows and ribbons added a touch of romanticism.

Rhinestone dominated the Drap collection, where creativity was unleashed on to sumptuous jewel-bags and wallets with crystals imitating leopard skin and with colour combinations created from beads. In a younger vein, a line of metal bags evoked America’s famous highways. Registration plates turned into wallets and boxes adorned with Swarovski crystal.

Next autumn, Tantra will launch Tantra Chic, with stylish designs like rigid wallets decorated with feathers and beads; lingerie dresses with silk embroidery and waistcoats with metal appliqué. The brand has gone for quality, with leather beads of urban inspiration, worn with a new line in foal leather and velvet ballet flats adorned with sequins.

Iberjoya, Bisutex and Eurobijoux, a review of autumn-winter 2010/11 glamour