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• 02/01/2010

  Bread & Butter, The Original

  • 

    Original Sin Saloon

• FACT FILE
  Exhibitors: 600
  Location: Aerouerto Berlín-Tempelhof

  CONTACT
  Münzstraße 13, 10178 Berlin, Germany
  hotline@breadandbutter.com
  http://www.breadandbutter.com

  NEXT SHOW DATES
  7-9 july 2010

Spanish brands blazed a trail at Europe’s leading urbanwear exhibition. Prints, vintage inspiration and knit defined collections for autumn/winter 2010/11.

Well being is the maxim at Desigual , where positive energy is based on elaborately cut garments with avant-garde volume. Japanese and baggy sleeves, as well as shoulder pads, bring new shapes to the women’s collection. Knitwear and leather dominated the men’s offer. The brand always pays special attention to craftsmanship in cut, detail and appliqué, and the new range is no exception.

Custo Barcelona went for its trademark look with a structured collection that mixes fabrics. Prints look to geometry, the animal kingdom and iconic illustrations to recover that brand essence. Fur is used generously in coats and in more restrained form in jackets and sweatshirts. The accessories range has expanded to include shopping bags and a night range with metallic shimmer and lamé. Sneakers make up the majority of the footwear with the addition of a range of furry boots.

Loreak Mendian’s first appearance in Berlin was an opportunity for the brand to present its key designs to the European market. Woollen jumpers and bomber jackets are the essential pieces in a collection that draws on vintage, navy and military style. Prints emerge in the shape of polka dots and tartan. The brand focuses attention on details like embroidered labelling and metal engraving and linings that play with fabric combinations.

Pepa Loves sticks to its typical femininity with ladylike dresses, gathering, frills and bows. However, the collection features darker shades and tartan dominates prints. The brand has strengthened its knit range and coats, adapting its offer to Northern Europe.

Nature and geometry are the favourite motifs in the Skunkfunk collection. Prints are a mainstay throughout a collection of comfortable silhouettes based on casualwear. For women, there are baggy trousers, with elasticated ankles and baggy skirts, while for men there are T-shirts with plant and tribal motifs in bright colours. The baby line is in keeping with previous collections, and now includes bodysuits, T-shirts and jeans. In footwear, ballet flats mix fabrics with patent leather, while boots are made from separate pieces zipped together.

Romantic or high tech, the world of shoes
El Naturalista goes for a mixture in its next autumn collection, with boots with woollen socks that peep over the edge and rabbit skin appliqué. The new range includes tough, waterproof leather. Heels have sponges under the metacarpals to improve foot comfort. Colour novelty comes from a denim colourway .

Munich presented more than 250 designs for the autumn/winter to come, replete with new materials, including leather, nubuck, wool, knit and cotton, and bold textures such as brocade, aged metal, floral prints, polka dots and tartan. Dark shades predominate: brown, khaki, green, navy blue and dark turquoise in matt, gloss, metallic and iridescent finishes. .

Camper launched its 360º Stitching, a new way of making footwear that adds durability by means of a double rubber sole. Designs for women mix leather and suede in different colours, and for men in a casual line. The Hybrid is the other novelty offered by the brand for winter 2010. This lasting new generation footwear follows in the wake of Camaleón and Wabi, with a philosophy based on recycling.

For Pretty Ballerinas , novelty comes in the shape of patchwork. Shapes stay the same, but colours and motifs are combined. Another inspiration next autumn will be the 1980s, with dogtooth ballet flats sporting snake- and crocodile-skin toes. Colours explore new registers, particularly deeper shades, like grey and dark green. But the real revolution is the second collection for girls from this Majorcan brand, which offers pink and glossy designs.

Sendra’s autumn/winter collection is replete with seasonal detail. Floral embroidery decorates the legs of cowboy boots, while rocker studs are kept for the bolder versions of this American classic. Worn-look leather and stained toes add to the vintage spirit.