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• 02/17/2009

  Spanish fashion week

  • 

    Van-Dos stand at SIMM

• FACT FILE

  Spanish exhibitors: 346

  Total net surface area: 25.000 sq mt

  Location: Feria de Madrid

   

  CONTACT

  Feria de Madrid (IFEMA)

  28042 Madrid
  Tel.: (+34) 91 772 30 00

  simm@ifema.es

   

  http://www.simm.ifema.es

   

  NEXT SHOW DATES

  16-18 July 2009

The 61st Madrid International Fashion Fair (SIMM) brought together the 2009/10 autumn/winter collections of over 1,039 brands from 17 countries. A large group of Spanish companies attended the event that not only covered the latest apparel, but also, increasingly, fashion accessories.

Winter knitwear
The versatility of knitwear could be seen on the stands of some of the Spanish companies that specialise in this field. Original knitted boleros and futuristic knotted shawls by Anauve bear witness to this in a collection where natural and more energetic and optimistic tones are combined, such as orange-red and fuchsia.

Knits are combined with more unusual materials in the 1970s inspired designs by Diktons . Tight fitting A-line outfits, sweaters and jackets mix textures that createspecial effects, contrasting satin with merino. The company has just opened a shop-in-shop in the Lotte Plaza department store in Moscow, and is negotiating new points of sale in Shanghai and Beijing, and is also expanding in the Middle East.

TMX is also inspired by the 1970s. Its loose-fitting jumpers and cardigans have extra large necks and lapels. It uses a palette of sombre grey, black and navy contrasting with violet, bottle green and flesh tones to form asymmetric outfits with pleats and frills comprised of satin, flannel or knitted fabrics.

The golden years of Jackie Kennedy and Audrey Hepburn are evoked in the 2009/10 autumn/winter collection from Naulover . Elegant scarf-collars and stoles add warmth to designs in houndstooth check and herringbone that this season are in new colours, such as deep red and ecru. The look is finished off with plain or mesh jackets with boiled wool waistcoats.

More folksy is the collection from Van-Dos that takes its inspiration from Peru’s Andean and colonial culture. Hence the choice of natural colours (ecru, alpaca, stone) combined with others of great intensity, such as purple, green and orange.

Reinvented classics
Art is the title of the new collection by Jota Más Ge , whose three lines (casual, urban and party) use surrealism to come up with abstract patterns that seek to create trompe l’oeil in the most intense colours. Wool and very soft fabrics characterise this winter collection comprising very versatile pieces that can be combined. The company is updating its corporate identity this season and this was reflected in its stand.

Kina Fernández presented her Difusión by Kina and Sara & K lines at SIMM. The first has impeccably cut classic jackets, suits made from natural materials and pure wool outfits. Fresher and bolder, Sara & K has youthful outfits combined with versatile knitted items.

The trademark hand-painted prints from Mercedes de Miguel are also included in the 2009/10 autumnwinter collection. This handcrafted work appears increasingly in the very elaborate coats and outer garments that combine textiles with leathers. The most romantic designs are made from masculine fabrics, such as flannel, that feature dresses in grey and mauve tones decorated with bows. The company has just entered Dubai and is about to move into Hong Kong.

Colours for dreaming
Mamatayoe has called its collection The Garden of Delights, in reference to the triptych by Bosch. Cheerful, fun and ageless, the designs feature silkscreen prints – made by hand in Asturias - and embroidery inspired by the famous work of art, with flowers, trees and insects that overflow with symbolism. The brand, which has 150 points of sale in Italy and many others in France, exports 40% of its production.

The Basque company Laga reinterprets the Prince of Wales check with golden streaks and remains faithful to dusty tones and patterns from the 1970s. Military jackets are made feminine with delicate outlines and there is no shortage of its irresistible bags with snap fasteners and a stylish line of retro suitcases.

The most bohemian looks came from Ian Mosh, whose unstructured outfits have a romantic, ethnic style that is once again, unmistakeable.

Party sparkle
The most festive aspect of SIMM has a Spanish name: Drap Barcelona. Wool, fur and embroidered leather fill the company’s bags and purses with fantasy for next winter. In its new 2009/10 autumn/winter collection, the brand has expanded its range of knitwear, rounding off its classic boleros and shawls with sleek jackets.

Ibizan style partying was provided by Charo Ruiz. The Balearic designer has gone for very long and light ad lib outfits - in white and floral prints – with smocks and crochet detail that combine with delicate boleros.

Matilde Cano, with spectacular evening outfits full of volume and with satin finishes, and Nuria Aymerich, with knee-length light outfits, completed the Spanish party look at SIMM.

Chic accessories
To complement the party look, you could not miss the marvellous headdress from Pablo y Mayaya. Its collection Gold Fever looked back to the last five years of the 19th century. The materials used to make outfits at that time have been used to make thick and heavy tapestry headdresses. Burnt orange, ochre, dusty rose, brown and slate are colours that feature heavily in its designs. The most sophisticated line, comprising futuristic gladiator style helmets, can be seen on the Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week catwalk in Andrés Sardá’s fashion show.

Also with a vintage flavour, the new collection from Mo by María Roca combines animal prints with many colours and plays with textures in a range of retro bags, purses and scarves. As a new initiative, the company presented its first clothing collection, comprising 12 models with an abundance of puffs and rucks in two-coloured outfits in black and dusty rose or ecru. The company’s expansion plan for 2009/10 includes entering the US and the UAE.

More contained is the jewellery collection from Alexandra Plata, whose Divine line, in sterling silver with amethysts, competes in terms of delicacy with Romance, in rose quartz with sterling silver and which incorporates original gem tie-pins, chokers, earrings in various lengths and bracelets made from silver and with gems. Last summer, the company opened a showroom in New York. Present in over 35 countries, its exports account for 50% of sales.

A final look at accessories must include the animal print stilettos by Magrit from its 2009/10 autumn/winter collection, which we were given a preview of at SIMM.

Love for all things ethnic
Faithful to its ethnic and colourful style, Flamenco launched its main range and childrenswear line at SIMM, along with its +Mas range of extra large sizes. In all of these, the brand has gone for a profusion of embroidery on dresses, mini-dresses and shirts that combine with velvet coats and jackets, with ornamental detail reminiscent of Tsarist Russia.

With its Rosario range – designed by the popular artist - Yokana has gone for extreme colours, natural fabrics and a mix of silk, chiffon and Lycra in dresses and shirts that have matching bags. The company also used SIMM to launch its menswear collection, which has a more discrete colouring but is equally faithful to natural materials.

The twinkle of gems presided over the stand of Lola Casademunt, who launched a line of hippy-style necklaces at SIMM. These were in strong colours, such as electric blue. Another range subtly incorporated gold in items of intense colour. The designs were rounded off by a series of oversized bangles in gold with an ethnic air.