Search:

• 01/21/2009

  Bread & Butter streetwear takes over Barcelona

  • 

    Jocomomola by Sybilla

• FACT FILE

  Spanish exhibitors: 70

  Total Net surface area: 130.000 square meters

  Location: Fira de Barcelona

   

  CONTACT

  BREAD & butter Berlin GmbH
  Münzstrasse 13
  D 10178 Berlin

   

  http://www.breadandbutter.com

   

  NEXT DATES

  1-3 July 2009

Between 21 and 23 January, over 800 brands and almost 80,000 professional visitors from around one hundred countries made a date with the XVI Bread & Butter – the last to be held in Barcelona – which brought us the latest in streetwear trends for autumn-winter 2009/10.

Urban fashion
Deluxe streetwear is Custo Barcelona’s identifying mark. A large display of accessories (watches, perfumes, lace-up boots, trainers with seventies graphics) turned its stand into an authentic “Custo world” presided over by the company’s new ethnic and psychedelic ready-to-wear collection, that was also presented in Barcelona’s Real Club de Barcelona, coinciding with Bread & Butter. T-shirt dresses in saturated colours, oversize outfits in contrasting textures, vibrant prints, iridescent finishes and a profusion of tie-dye in the men’s collection were the main features of its new designs.

Most praise was reserved for Camper’s stand, set up like a future library and the result of a collaboration with Nendo Design, the Japanese design studio. The German designer Helga Jongerius left her mark on the “iconic” models of the Balearic-based company: Pelotas, Peu, Imar and Brothers. Camper’s second stand, located in the Sport & Street area, hosted the Mediterranean Sneakers collection, which was dominated by an updated selection of vulcanised shoes aimed at young buyers who follow the latest fashion trends.

Having recently shown its menswear collection in Paris and about to show in London, Armand Basi brought his most urban and casual collection to Bread & Butter, with a predominance of geometric prints and bright “diluted” colours, with subtle designs cut impeccably in magenta, grey and burgundy tones. For men, the Catalan company went for navy, purple, grey and moss green in its shirts and jumpers. The high bull-horn heels on Oxford ankle boots and sneakers in different colours complete the collection.

Fashion played a prominent role on Florentino’s stand, that along with classic shirts, jumpers and college-style jackets in navy, grey and forest green went for stunning stone coloured suede sneakers and black trainers that combine different textures, are padded and even have metallic toes.

Streetwear that sets trends
Ever since it has been held in Barcelona, Desigual has not been able to resist the call of the Bread & Butter trade fair. Yet again, the streetwear brand had its “painters” scattered throughout the exhibition site, dressed in white overalls and with the job of handing out the brand’s coloured bags to those attending the fair. With the slogan All together making world better, Desigual went for an ethnic style in its new collection, with an abundance of patchwork, visible thick backstitches and psychedelic mixes of prints. Bags and coats, a must for fans of the company, featured prominently on its stand.

SkunkFunk went for accessories in watery-green, with a line comprising bags in different formats, purses and hats. A discrete camouflage print also features heavily in its collection. For its more exclusive SFK range, it went for innovative cuts, sensual silk dresses and a restrained retro biker look for men, consisting of jackets and knee-high boots.

El Naturalista presented new designs from its Inca line with non-slip rubber soles in ankle boots, knee-high boots and shoes. As a new feature, it coordinated legwarmers and scarves with its classic clogs. It has extended its Amber range with more stylised models and its classic faded green emblem is now in blue and lilac. The company, whose exports account for 90% of sales, is now available in 45 countries.

Even more stunning are the designs by Neosens, hence its motto High expression. Its Oxford ankle boots finished in bronze with organza bow and impressive heels compete spectacularly with the designs of its sister brand, The Art Company, that went for tartan checks in a complete range of Mary Janes, lace-up and calf-length boots and ballet pumps. The company, whose exports account for 80% of sales, has a store in Paris.

Vaho Works, with its shoulder bags made from recycled materials and Uno de 50, with its first limited edition range of lamps and a brand-new range of desk accessories, were also on show at the latest Bread & Butter.

The most stylish looks
Chie Mihara again had the most feminine accessories, creating a particularly luxurious and decadent look with an eighties feel, thanks to platform shoes that combine different materials (suede, leather) and textures (smooth and rough, matt and shiny) in the same shoe. The banana heel and natural tones, such as grey, brown and green, predominate in her 2009/10 autumn-winter collection.

The stylish Pretty Ballerinas has gone for comfortable chic and is expanding its range next season with a Luxury Collection that stands out for its use of luxury materials, such as lace, gems and ornamental brooches, and with an original range of women’s slippers in velvet with brand’s logo on the instep.

Sweeter is the collection from Jocomomola by Sybilla, which saw the debut of the designer Carolina Blázquez. The young designer imbues winter with optimism with her delicate plant prints and romantic geometric prints on flowing dresses with a sixties air that can be coordinated with bright two-coloured Mary Janes in suede and leather.

Presided over by its popular “big-headed” dolls, Pepa Loves again had the “poppiest” stand at the fair. The collection showed us some very youthful interpretations of tweed, a profusion of Vichy checks and went for plain colours, such as black, blue and red. Stamped with hearts and frills like lapels, the designs had a romantic feel.

In Bread & Butter we also saw sensual knitted designs by the Sevillian designer Anjara, whose collection Wish Fear is dominated by new cuts applied to knitwear. There was also a collection by the veteran designer Sita Murt, who won us over with a range in coral, ivory, grey and mauve tones that was rounded off by the company’s line of fashion jewellery and bags, which were a new feature at this fair.

Knitwear also featured heavily in the collection from Van-Dos, who opted for plain colours (forest green, lilac, deep red, black and red) combined with watered down prints and camel raincoats. The company also presented MDM, its second line, at Bread & Butter.

Feet for sport
Tweed has come to the sports shoe at the hands of Munich, which has no fear of glitter, sequins, animal prints, vinyl, velvet and energy colours for its sneakers, the most glam in the market. As a new feature, the brand presented its Baby Goal range, with models for the little ones.

More urban is the sports shoe by Vialis Aro, which seduced us with zip up calf-length boots, finished off with plastic toes with a plaited effect – something which features heavily in its new line. Grey, pink, black and brown are just some of the colours in which this model is available. Ankle sneakers in different colours and decorated with the ring that gives the brand its name complete the collection. The company has just opened a store in the modern Born district, its third in Barcelona.

The popular Victoria canvas shoes keep on reinventing themselves, with cow prints, fur toes, textures that look like crumpled paper, tweed, lace doilies, strass and sequins. The most striking even incorporate Victoria shoes with a jelly shoe upper. Even further removed from the classic Victoria shoe, the collection is rounded off with sneakers with a patent leather on velvet trim and pop designs with polka dot prints, like bluchers that combine materials and textures.

Fashion party
Some of the stands, such as those of Toni Francesc and Etxart & Panno, were given a party look. The Catalan designer, who will shortly debut at the Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week, presented his Contemplación collection at Bread & Butter: surrealist, reflexive, with cutting-edge patterns and chromatic black, purple, navy blue, green and brown tones. Etxart & Panno also went for darker tones in a collection that was rounded off with textile headdresses and brooches matched with sophisticated evening outfits.

A younger look was presented by the party designs from Suzie Wong, sister brand of the youthful Raasta, which went for fabrics, dyes and natural colours, handcrafted embroidery and its own prints for a post-grunge collection called Hands in my pocket. Meanwhile, Suzie Wong has looked towards to the “roaring twenties” to create elaborate designs with over one million sequins hand stitched on dresses covered in the label’s hallmark ornamental tigers. Suzie Wong is sold in the TSUM and Harvey Nichols department stores in Moscow and Hong Kong respectively.

To complete the party look, what better than an accessory from Malababa, whose Lola necklace, with fabric flowers, a plastic chain and golden hoops in different colours, is a must for fans of the company. Its clutch bags with metallic plates competed in glamour with the Grossi bags, shaped like boxes of sweets and with a spectacular design in soft crocodile leather, that presided over the stand. The company’s collections have just been incorporated in the prestigious Olarte Foussard showroom in New York’s SoHo.

Bread & Butter, spring-summer 2009