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• 07/08/2008

  Bread & Butter Barcelona: New Order for summer 09

  • 

    Bread & Butter outlook

• FACT FILE

  Spanish exhibitors: 91

  Total net surface area: 130.000 sq mt

  Location: Fira de Barcelona

   

  CONTACT

  BREAD & butter Berlin GmbH
  Münzstrasse 13
  D 10178 Berlin

   

  http://www.breadandbutter.com

   

  NEXT SHOW DATES

  21-23 January 2009

No fewer than 89,168 visitors descended on the Fira de Barcelona convention centre from July 2 to 4, for a new Bread & Butter Barcelona. Visitor figures rose dramatically, with new arrivals from markets as diverse as Eastern Europe, USA, South America and Asia. Based on the theme “New Order” – owing to the new distribution of the various sections – and with a new area for fabrics called, The Source, this latest edition of Europe’s major fashion tradeshow was about denim, energy and cutting-edge streetwear.

Streetwear celebration
Some of the most popular stands at Bread & Butter were, metaphorically speaking, flying the Spanish flag and Custo Barcelona was a case in point. The designer presented his new Ultradenim jeans line in energy tones with atypical cuts, his first eyewear and the fragrance that carries his name. Our choice was the colourful tunic dresses designed for spring-summer 09, with surf-print shirt designs and box-pleated skirts in new-age fabrics worn with A-line jackets and French sleeves.

Equally youthful and carefree was the streetwear made by Barcelona’s Desigual, whose massive stand had a huge catwalk to present its new designs. Themed Me and you is more, it went for vibrant T-shirt dresses in graffiti print, with V-necks and glitter detail, colourful Seventies-print coats and unmistakeable deconstructed skirts.

There was no shortage of prints at Pepa Loves, previously known as Pepa Karnero, and based on illustrations its young designers produce each season. SkunkFunk, on the other hand, has move away from the street look towards a more mature high street approach, known as SKFK, which will soon go on sale in boutiques. Aimed at customers aged 28 to 40, it comes in discreet neutral shades and contrasts East and West with its transverse cuts.

Jordi Labanda, on the other hand, has moved away from his more mature style of previous seasons to cater for a younger age group which loves pastel shades and sailor style. His unmistakeable illustrations smother pink and sky-blue T-shirts and dresses, and he now has some twenty bag designs to boot.

Equally fresh and feminine is the latest from Spanish brand Raasta, which offered a brightly-coloured collection with floral and geometric prints, and carefully studied volume. Asymmetric mini-dresses have structured bodices adorned with multi-coloured fabric fringes, and coordinate with irresistible shopping and shoulder bags.

Cimarron offered colourful “aromatic jeans” which give off a mango, strawberry, mint or orange fragrance; Guitare went for T-shirts, while Vaho Works used recycled advertising tarpaulin and tyre chambers to make its right-on streetwear.

Footwear on the edge
Camper footwear came to Bread & Butter with laden with goodies. While one stand had a Locus BCN display with its classic sneaker customised by artists from different disciplines, another bowled us over with Camper Mediterranean Sneaker, a footwear initiative inspired by the sea it is named after. BBB was a chance to see its classic Wabi, now not just a strappy sandal, but a simple flip-flop with a rubber strip over the instep. Primeros Pasos is another new line, designed for children just taking their first steps. All this, plus new versions of Bianca, Ariadna and Laura, complete the Camper offering for the summer to come. The brand is also in the news for a boutique due to open in September in Madrid’s Calle Fuencarral and an Asian-style tapas bar called Dos Palillos in the basement of Casa Camper, in Barcelona.

El Naturalista presented its new line Recyclus, made from materials that are not just recycled, but also recyclable. In fact, the company has containers in its shops where customers can leave any old unneeded Recyclus. The line includes mules with emphatic heels and lace-ups for men in dusky shades like mauve. Next summer, El Naturalista fans will be able to choose from a wide range of sandals for men and women inspired by New Zealand’s first tribes. Natural colours like sand, green, red, orange and grey make up this comfy, natural eco collection.

The latest Aro line by Vialis includes twin-coloured ballet pumps with cut-out fabric toes and new natural materials like brezza. The brand is sticking to its signature netting, and has opted for gold and silver with chocolate-brown detail. The shoes sport pinking on patent or soft leather. There are lace-less sneakers – a must this season – which are flexible and have an aged-look and retro plimsolls to complete the collection. In September, Vialis will be opening its first shop in Paris, on Rue Sévigné, in the quartier of Le Marais.

Comfort is also the name of the game for Spanish footwear brand Victoria, which offered some surprising new versions of its classic Inglesa design, with a gradated effect in new colours like grey, mauve, aubergine and indigo. It also has options customised by artists, and patent leather plimsolls, as well as a relaunch of its canvas Camping shoe in the original shape and colours.

Munich has gone pastel (yellow, pink or apple green) and has added Vichy check and Liberty print version, as well as plaits, glitter polka dots and metallic finishes.

Infinite chic
Bread & Butter also made room for the chic and sophisticated. Flowing Armand Basi dresses in a Sixties look and pastel shades compete for attention with characterful baggy trousers with gathered hems. The Catalan brand fills the man’s wardrobe with plenty of colour, with striking floral, checked or pastel T-shirts. Its footwear was one of the most sensual at Bread & Butter, including high-fronted sandals with dizzy, bull-horn heels. The look is completed with sailcloth maxi bags in washed shades and summer baskets with inner security bags in Liberty print. They all feature the new Armand Basi corporate logo, an original twin-coloured ribbon in pink and fuchsia.

Inspired by classical ballerinas, veteran designer Isabel de Pedro presented En punta, a profusion of tulles, organza, silk, cotton voile and linen. Her evening gowns moved away from black and white to embrace, for the first time, brighter shades of turquoise, yellow, cherry, lilac and coral, and African prints. More restrained in its colour choice was the ceremonial collection by Etxart & Panno, which has recently entered Saudi Arabia and Mexico.

The chic Parisian element was introduced by Raquel Micola, the young designer behind Mimótica Micola, whose next summer’s collection includes raffia baskets with Liberty print frills. Her bestsellers remain Weekend and La cage, an original basket with bamboo netting, this time in striking purple and strawberry red. New this season was a romantic line in purses decorated with curled tulle.

Eco-conscious Anjara chose natural fabrics and clean-cut lines for her latest collection, where the designer from Seville has focused on knitted fabrics. The refined collection also offers a full range of matching accessories, including hats, necklaces and belts. Purity and light are the key words in the collection of Sita Murt, which is an ode to femininity with its exquisitely flattering knit dresses.

El calzado más sexy
The bullhorn heels of Armand Basi and unmistakeable designs of Chie Mihara are the ultra-sexy side of footwear at this Bread & Butter. Chie Mihara brings all the colours of winter to summer, with a range of creams, browns, greys, natural leather and bottle green. Her mid to high heels are decorated with cut-outs and strategic openings, and are high-fronted with a high instep. Yet the calm, mature results include an occasional surprise in the shape of original three-toned shoes in cream and navy, with pink detail adorned with star-shaped studs.

Pretty Ballerinas opted for fluorescent tones and new breathable materials in ballet flats like Jols, in its Pretty Travel Pack line. It also has open-heeled designs and ultra- flexing moccasins. Its classic lace-up ballet shoe opens at the front in winter and at the back in summer, and comes in metallic shades and suede in different colours. Also in suede are its Menorcan-style abarca sandals, made in different colours. The heel has arrived in the more urban style of ballet shoe, in fluorescent stretch fabrics and with a sporty urban sole. For the evening, there are designs in cracked and treated leather with heels of varying heights, Liberty-style adornment, snakeskin and black or earth shades.

Farrutx has gone for the wedge or plaiting, or combines both. Ultra-soft Spanish Napa and patent leather are the materials of choice and colours are combined in every shoe. Bags offer different kinds of plaiting, from the more classical to the ultra-flexible. For him, there are deerskin moccasins, and leather sports and nautical shoes.

A fresh new look at footwear came from The Art Company, with its staggered cork wedges, wide-strapped, thick-heeled bar-shoes in mauve and men’s sneakers in multi-coloured leather or suede in washed tones.

Bread & Butter, January 2008

Bread & Butter photos by Tomy Pelluz