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• 01/22/2008

  Full-on fashion at Bread & Butter Barcelona

  • 

    Inside the fair

• FACT FILE

  Spanish exhibitors: 120

  Total net surface area: 130.000 square meters

  Location: Fira de Barcelona

   

  CONTACT

  BREAD & butter Berlin GmbH
  Münzstrasse 13
  D 10178 Berlin

   

  http://www.breadandbutter.com

   

  NEXT SHOW DATES

  July 2-4

Nearly 100,000 people came through the door of the sixth Bread & Butter Barcelona, held January 16-18, which each season showcases the latest young branded fashion. This first king-sized version occupied a large part of Barcelona’s landmark exhibition centre Montjuïc, where a total of 945 brands – 120 from Spain – exhibited their autumn-winter 08/09 collections.

Fashion on the edge
The Fashion section included Spanish brands with a more unusual style, like El Naturalista, with its ecological footwear and new range of bags, gloves and scarves. The brand with the little frog logo exhibited two new line: Ambar for women and Trillo for men. The first is inspired by fossil resin with false wedges in ankle boots or boot-cum-salon shoes. The second draws on traditional tools used in the grain fields, with rustic look boots inspired by farmers’ footwear.

Skunk Funk shares this ecological approach, with a 'Make you green' slogan in keeping with the organic cotton and natural materials, like soya, used in its new collection. Very popular in Germany, its latest designs are inspired by 19th-century Berlin and urban travellers. The German capital was also the location of a Skunk Funk street casting initiative, where people were invited to feature in its advertising. The brand exports 80% of its turnover.

Jocomomola also chose a green message for its latest collection. “The future is green” featured prominently on a stand where rain-blue, magenta and, of course, green in natural shades, dominated a beautiful collection of stylish coats and diaphanous floral dresses to add a touch of colour to the winter wardrobe.

Equally irresistible were the colourful creations of Raquel Micola, the driving force behind Mimótica Micola, which had one of the most striking stands at the show. In tune with a sweet and Frenchified style, the designer offered practical but original handbags from her new collection Je achete donc je exist. Popular for its polka-dot motorbike helmets, the brand is celebrating its fifth anniversary with its first footwear collection, offering platform shoes in winter fabrics like tweed and jacquard. Being a girl, as the designer is quick to point out, doesn’t mean being uncomfortable.

Colour was not in short supply at the spoon-decorated Muchacha stand. The main attraction was its T-shirt dress. Big-headed dolls – the unmistakeable brand icon of Pepa Loves by Pepa Karnero – welcomed visitors to a stand decked out with loose-fitting blouses and babydolls in check and naïve prints, all made from natural materials.

Jordi Labanda departed from his more customary pastel shades, enchanting Bread & Butter with his Lady collection, which updates an elegant navy look, in black and white. Lightweight feminine dresses were worn with doctor bags, cases and briefcases in dark shades. Ebony and ivory was also popular in the bohemian look created by Van-Dos, inspired by 20th century artistic movements, artists and performers like Isadora Duncan and Gustav Klimt.

Macarena Ramos and Anna Figuera, the designers behind El Delgado Buil, joined forces with DC Co. for their first footwear collection, which made its debut at Bread & Butter. Cutting-edge, urban and chic, these hybrid shoes combine classic boots with Cuban heels and 1960s-style ankle boots with buckles, and are available in brick-red, navy and beige.

Ibiza and its lifestyle was the leitmotiv of the Pacha Collection, which combines an 1980s club look with a handcrafted finish in the typical island tradition. The brand’s cherry icon also features prominently on sneakers, T-shirts and bags, or hanging from items of fashion jewellery.

Superior, the impact of novelty
Far removed from the bright sunlight of Ibiza was the sixth collection by young designer duo Barrio Santo, entitled Generación maldita. A darker side of romanticism and drama verging on madness inspired the illustrations on tees and sweatshirts, featuring crows and sombre landscapes taken from sinister dreams. The colour palette ranged from black to white and grey with the odd concession to red. Patterns were a classic-meets-contemporary mix in very wearable garments made from refined cloth. Our choice: the updated Prince of Wales used in drainpipes and bomber jackets that have proved such a sensation in Germany.

Superior was also the place to find RT by Roberto Torretta, the second line by the Argentine designer produced in partnership with Grupo Nicotina. Aimed at a young, dynamic target, its urban style is casual and carefree, with tailored silhouettes and a boho-tech look. The new line is due to have its own shops and in the medium term, franchised boutiques.

Superior Women, the spirit of feminine present
Designer Chie Mihara presented her collection in the Superior Women section, with thick, medium-high heels and lifts in different colours. She contrasts stone-grey, ecru and purple with more aggressive colour options like fluorescent green. Also powerful were some of the new technological designs by Farrutx, like the patent leather boots with translucent plastic platforms.

Isabel de Pedro got her inspiration for Vinum from the world of wine, and the knitwear features illustrations of grapes and plant prints reminiscent of vineyards. Violet and pinkish hues, combined with lush fabrics like velvet make this a meticulous, romantic and very feminine collection.

Warm hues dominate the Laga collection, which again puts the focus on prints, to very British effect. Nearby Malababa’s soft bags, large metal appliqué and vintage flavour struck a chord with visitors from home and abroad.

Colour, though more restrained, was also the key to the Pretty Ballerinas stand, with designs decorated in rhinestone and bows. Our choice was the plaited ballet flat with two-coloured toes.

After the recent launch of boutiques in Valencia and Almería, Etxart & Panno are back again at this season’s Bread & Butter with cocktail and evening dresses in dark shades. Also growing apace is Sita Murt, who now has 13 shops and who revealed her very first bag collection at this B&B. Nearby was Raasta, with sensual T-shirt on sale at Paul and Joe in London and the Tsum department store in Moscow.

Superior Agents, design with personality
Custo Barcelona had one of the biggest stands at Bread & Butter. Prints are more chic and distinguished in his latest proposal, in knitted figure-hugging tube dresses adorned with glitter. Sporty fabrics are used for men’s drainpipes decorated with geometric patterns. It was altogether a bolder look than Armand Basi, which offers neutral shades and casual but elegant silhouettes. The Spanish brand has also stepped up its accessories line, offering urban-style maxi-bags and sophisticated ankle boots for her.

Not far away, the Camper stand was a play on contrast in matt and gloss materials. Inspired by the colours of nature and made from waterproof fabrics, the new footwear collection opts for ankle boots for him and laced suede designs for her. The men’s ankle boot also predominates in the Castañer collection, with designs combining textures and original metallic finishes.

Sports footwear and streetwear courtesy of Munich were also on show at Bread & Butter, including its star product, Goal, which offers more than 50 new variations on texture, material and colour. Its latest creation, Acropol, was also on display.

Edgy denim
One of the main attractions in the Denim section was once again Desigual, which has focused on accessories, like over-the-shoulder bags and handbags combining textures with unmistakeable graffiti-style prints, to complement its streetwear. The brand’s promotional Wow! bag was strongly in evidence in lobbies and leisure areas of the Bread & Butter venue. The brand also presented its first intimates collection for men.

The jeans brand Cimarron offered everything from embroidered coats to military-style garments. Black and purple inspired by the music of Prince, pinstripes and vintage style made for a heady mixture. Equally varied was the Lois collection with aggressive biker designs, varsity-style denimwear and hippy looks.

One of the most popular stands was Pepe Jeans London. The denim brand, which has recently been advertised by it-girl Sienna Miller, now has a new campaign featuring MTV presenter Ashton Kutcher, husband to actress Demi Moore, and top model Daria Werbowy. The brand also has a brand new collection inspired by Andy Warhol.

Sport & Street, street spirit
Sport & Street was the place to find Spanish brands like Keds, with brightly-coloured sneakers and sporty ballet flats. Kelme offered sporty trainers with bold prints and shoulder bags by Vaho Works with computer-theme illustrations. Vaho was also selling its Fetish for Charity bag, the proceeds from which are donated to NGOs like Nestwärme (Berlin) and Casal d’Infants del Raval (Barcelona).

The next edition of Bread & Butter, to be held from July 2 to 4, will increase the current exhibition area of 130,000sq m, and head in the direction of Plaza de España, where outdoor exhibitions are planned.

Bread & Butter, July 2007

Photos: kshoot.com