The charms of Seville’s traditions are a gauge of its magnetism for visitors, with the courtyards of mansion houses that are now luxury hotels and restaurants, and popular neighbourhoods full of local flavour. And yet a fresh feel flows through its narrow whitewashed streets, which are also a space for art and design. The contemporary scene in 21st-century Seville is symbolised by the Metropol Parasol, a geometric wooden structure which lives in architectural harmony alongside the legacy of traditional Andalusia.
Seville is the established nerve centre of flamenco design, courtesy of international exhibition SIMOF, and the capital of Carthusian craftsmanship and bull-fighting heritage. But it also offers unique mix when it comes to shopping. In Triana, they still sell the tile typical in Seville since the 16th century, while Santa Cruz is the place to go for any detail of flamenco attire.
Our route starts in Calle Sierpes, one of the city’s traditional shopping streets. First stop is Adolfo Domínguez
, at number two. Its classical garments in minimal lines make for a 360º shopping experience, obtainable by using a smartphone to scan barcodes. Multi-brand footwear retailers like Nicolás at 49, and Menbur
at number 12 of nearby Calle Cerrajería are some of the most popular shops here. On the same road, Nice Things
, at 31, will fill the wardrobe with girly prints.
Close by in Calle Cuna is Dolores Promesas
, at 26, with message T-shirts and romantic dresses that are the last word in femininity. Back to Calle Sierpes for one of Seville’s flagship brands in Victorio & Lucchino
with its highly individual styles for those big occasions. At 81, Desigual
injects some energy in the form of bright colour and optimistic prints. At the end of the street, the Wabi Sabi Gallery is worth a visit for art and shopping in a contemporary setting.
When you get to the City Hall, in Plaza Nueva, you’ll find Loewe
, which strengthened its connection with the city in 2011 when it launched its popular Sevilla bag. Purificación García
, another big Spanish name, is close by at number eight on the same square, with an autumn collection in flowing lines and fine materials. Also in the neighbourhood, Gocco Kids
(on Méndez Núñez, corner of 1, Moratín), revisits kids classics in smart styles.
Head for the Guadalquivir River for another iconic shopping street in central Seville, Tetuán. This pedestrianised area is home to big chains like Cortefiel
. For footwear trends, try Marypaz
at 17, and Camper
at 24, and for mini versions, go to Mayoral
at 19. On perpendicular Calle Rioja, you can find ready-to-wear icon, Zara
(at number 10), street-style Stradivarius
(11) and evening wear from veteran designer Roberto Verino
(14). For British-style sophistication, try Scalpers
At the opposite end of the street, turn on to Calle Velázquez, for more top consumer brands. At number one, Bershka
has cool looks for music lovers and, at 12, Massimo Dutti
offers classic cuts for daily wear.
Head up towards O’Donnell where, at number 7, Mango
has the seasons top trends. Alongside, is Inditex in more youthful vein, at Pull & Bear
. Another top local multi-brand retailer is Dorado (at 15) with quality footwear. Next door at 16, Hoss Intropia
unveils a universe of contemporary elegance.
Cross main artery Alfonso XII to get to Plaza del Duque de Victoria with the imposing presence of the Corte Inglés department store at number eight, catering for every style need, including cool jewellery from Aristocrazy
. On the same square at number 6, Sfera
has fashion novelties at attractive prices. A short walk eastwards will take you to Amichi
(6, Laraña) for boho outfits.
Bridalwear takes over on Calle Cuna with sophisticated styles by Franc Sarabia
(at 46) and femininity from every perspective at Pronovias
(50). At the end of the road, Rosa Clará
has gowns for the more cosmopolitan bride (11, Plaza del Salvador).
If you’re visiting the Maestranza bullring, don’t miss nearby El Caballo
(7, Antonia Díaz), a beacon of chic style in the best Seville tradition, since 1892.
Round off the day with some tapas at El Rinconcillo
, the city’s oldest bar. Founded in 1670, this tavern-style restaurant, with its traditional tile-and-wood décor, has dishes that still retain the city’s Mozarabic flavour. It’s a must if you want to hang out with the city’s traditional fraternities, celebrities and other quaint local characters.